I'm finally, belatedly beginning to discover just how rich and deep the cuisine of Mexico really is. I guess I always knew that tacos were just the beginning, but that's literally true when it comes to masa, the ground corn staple among all the various regions of Mexico. Discovering masa is the equivalent of discovering a whole culinary world: Probably every region of Mexico uses it in some form. It's the daily bread.
A few weeks ago i wrote about the empanada-like tlacoyos, a sort of street snack that can be whipped up in surprisingly little time if you can find maseca, a common brand of just-add-water masa mix. This chili-laced soup from Veracruz uses masa as a chewy dumpling—a Mexican version of chicken and dumplings. The heat from the chile and a squeeze of lime keep it refreshing enough even in summer, but I'm also filing this away for my next winter cold.
About the author: Blake Royer founded The Paupered Chef with Nick Kindelsperger, where he writes about food and occasional travels.
- 6 bone-in chicken thighs
- 1/2 cup maseca masa flour plus 1/2 cup water
- 2 dried ancho chiles, stems removed
- 2 medium tomatoes, cut in half
- 1 large onion, peeled and quartered
- 3 cloves garlic, peeled
- 2 chayote squash, or 2 large potatoes
- 1 pound corn kernels
- Small bunch epazote, or substitute cilantro
- Fresh lime juice, as needed
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